SAINTS, LAKES AND WATERFALLS: THE NORTH EAST SWITZERLAND

St.Gallen mit Säntis Photo by Christof Sonderegger

Switzerland, located at the heart of Europe, beckons with its breathtaking landscapes, from oil-painting-like views to charming medieval towns nestled on mountain slopes, stunning lakes, the majestic Rhine River, and of course, its delicious cuisine. Join us as we explore the details of our memorable journey along Lake Constance in northeastern Switzerland, where we had the privilege of being guests of Switzerland Tourism, courtesy of the Swiss Embassy.

 

M. Ferhat YÜKSEL

 

Switzerland, known for its medieval towns, chocolate, clocks, nature, and the iconic Alps with popular ski resorts, offers a unique beauty in the fall. Turkish Airlines offers four daily flights to Zurich, each taking about three hours. From the Zurich airport, you can easily access all corners of Switzerland via train, bus, or tram, with Zurich’s city center just 10 minutes away by train.

In Zurich, stroll through the city’s picturesque streets after enjoying a coffee break. Then, head to Schaffhausen, the capital of the Canton of Schaffhausen, just 40 minutes away by train. Located on the north shore of the Rhine River, Schaffhausen has a population of 79,000. During your visit, you can stay at Hotel Arcona, located next to the train station. With its modern architecture and room design, the hotel offers a unique experience, complemented by a fantastic spa.

 

The Rhine Falls located in Switzerland’s Schaffhausen canton is Europe’s largest waterfall at 150 meters wide and 23 meters high.
THE LARGEST IN EUROPE 

Rhine Falls, located just four kilometers from the Schaffhausen city center and attracting 1.3 million visitors annually, is a must-visit destination. Situated on the mighty Rhein, Europe’s longest and most majestic river, which begins in the Swiss Alps, Rhine Falls is the largest waterfall in Europe. It’s just a 10-minute bus ride from the hotel, with the Neuhausen am Rheinfall bus departing nearby. On one side of the falls lies Schaffhausen, and on the other, the Zurich canton. You can take a stroll along the Schaffhausen side and enjoy the view from one of the cafes or restaurants by the river. For an even more exhilarating experience, I recommend visiting the giant rock in the middle of the waterfall. Accessed by small boats called ‘Weidling’s, which brave the wild waters of the river, the rock lets you feel the raw power of the falls, with 700,000 liters of water plunging every second. After soaking in the spectacular view, the boat will take you to the Zurich canton side.

On the Zurich side, visit Laufen Castle, which has preserved its medieval charm. Explore the castle museum and its surroundings, and enjoy a delightful dinner at the restaurant.

 

Stein am Rhein
LEAVE YOURSELF TO THE RHINE… 

The Rhine River, once a vital transportation route for Europe, historically carried everything from food and weapons to salt, which was as valuable as gold. One of the most enchanting experiences you can have on this river is a ferry trip from Schaffhausen to the medieval town of Stein am Rhein. The serene morning journey on a quiet, motorless ferry will captivate you. As you glide along the calm waters, you’ll encounter canoeists, graceful swans, charming houses with beautiful architecture along the shore, and, most notably, the tranquil silence and lush shades of green. There’s no better way to start your day than with a cup of coffee and a fresh croissant, both available on the ferry.

 

THE ROAD TO THE MIDDLE AGES: STEIN AM RHEIN 

Tied to the Schaffhausen Canton, Stein am Rhein is a charming medieval town, with stone streets and stunning architecture, including the Burg Hohenklingen Castle perched on a hill overlooking the city. Before strolling through the car-free streets, make your way to the castle, where you can savor Schaffhauser Rieslingcremesuppe (a regional cream of mushroom soup made with Riesling grapes), steak, and the famous local sorbet at the restaurant with its breathtaking views. What sets this restaurant apart is its commitment to local produce—everything, from the meat to the wine, is sourced from the town or its surrounding areas. The castle, restored in 2007, houses a museum displaying artifacts from its history, which might catch your interest. After enjoying the view of Lake Constance from the restaurant’s terrace, continue your journey through the medieval heart of Switzerland as you head back into town.

 

Schwarzer Horn

The medieval charm of Stein am Rhein is beautifully preserved, with one of the town’s standout features being its wood-frame buildings adorned with frescoes that line the cobblestone streets. The city walls, still standing strong today, and the well-maintained castle door add to the town’s historical allure. Nearly every house in Stein am Rhein showcases frescoes dating from the 16th to the 20th centuries. One of the most striking buildings is the Schwarzes Horn (Dark Horn), dating back to 1515. This house belonged to Johann Rudolf Schmid, who served as ambassador to the Ottoman Empire from 1629 to 1643. Schmid himself painted the frescoes, which were later repainted by A. Schmid in 1914.

Opposite the historic parliament building stands the Weisser Adler (White Eagle), decorated with frescoes inspired by Giovanni Boccaccio’s Decameron and motifs from Gesta Romanorum. These are Switzerland’s oldest Renaissance wall paintings, created by Thomas Schmid between 1520 and 1525.

As you walk through Stein am Rhein, every step brings you closer to Lake Constance, crystal-clear waters flowing into the Rhine River. The town’s fascinating stories offer a deep dive into the Middle Ages and allow you to experience Europe from a unique perspective.

The view of Stein am Rhein and Lake Constance from the Burg Hohenklingen Castle.
On your journey from Schaffhausen to St. Gallen, make a quick stop at Rorschach, located along the shores of Lake Constance. Enjoy a scenic bike ride along the lakeside, where an eight-kilometer route offers breathtaking views and charming lakeside houses. After the ride, take a break at the Hotel Rotes Kreuz’s restaurant in the nearby town of Arbon, which boasts a lovely view of the lake. Here, you can savor dishes like sheep’s sorrel served with a sauce and egg slices, and spinach and cheese wrapped in crepes. For the return trip, take a ferry across Lake Constance back to Rorschach (though we brought our bikes back as the water levels were too low for the ferries to operate).
St. Gall Cathedral
CULTURE, INTELLECTUALISM AND RELIGION 

After a short but enjoyable bike tour, we traveled from Rorschach to St. Gallen by train. For a convenient stay, the Radisson Blu Hotel is a great option, offering proximity to the city center and comfortable accommodations. St. Gallen is renowned for its monastery, cathedral, and library, all part of the grand Baroque St. Gall Catholic Complex. The St. Gall Cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage site, has been a hub of intellectual and religious significance since its construction in the 8th century.

 

St. Gall (Stiftsbibliothek) library
YOUR UNDERSTANDING OF LIBRARIES WILL CHANGE 

The St. Gall (Stiftsbibliothek) library, located within the St. Gallen Cathedral Complex, is truly awe-inspiring. Founded by the Benedictine monks in the 7th century, it houses an impressive archive of 160,000 books, including over 1,500 manuscripts, some of which are of Ottoman origin. The library’s rococo-style interior, crafted in 1758, adds to its charm, while the ceiling frescoes, depicting scenes from Nicea, Constantinople, Ephesus, and Calcedon, appear to come to life in the natural light. Among its remarkable exhibits are mummies from Egypt.

The square and surrounding roads, where the St. Gall Cathedral is located, are traffic-free, making for a peaceful stroll through narrow lanes flanked by historic buildings. While wandering, you can shop at high-end boutiques and stop for a coffee at Chocolaterie am Klosterplatz, where you can savor their exquisite chocolates.

 

DINING EXPERIENCE IN A PALACE 
Schlössli Restaurant

Among the many dining options in St. Gallen, Schlössli stands out as a memorable spot, offering not only delicious food but also a unique historic atmosphere and architecture. Built in the 16th century, this restaurant is known for its special sausages, an ever-evolving menu, and an extensive wine cellar that includes selections from Spain, Chile, and Australia. The menu at Schlössli changes with the seasons, allowing guests to savor fresh offerings year-round. A must-try is the Bratwurst sausage served with a flavorful sauce as a starter, followed by tender calf meat and rösti (mashed onion and potatoes) as the main course. With Murano chandeliers, handmade woodwork, and dining rooms that have remained unchanged for centuries, Schlössli offers a truly exceptional experience.

You reach Santis Mountain by cable car.
OBSERVE SIX CITIES FROM THE SUMMIT 

If you’re planning to stay in St. Gallen for a few days, there are two must-see attractions. First is Säntis Mountain, where, at 2,500 meters above sea level, you can enjoy breathtaking views of six different countries—weather permitting. Be sure to bring a jacket, as temperatures can be chilly at the summit, which is accessible by cable car. While there, don’t miss the Schlorzifladen cake at the Säntisgipfel restaurant, offering a delicious treat alongside a stunning panoramic view.

 

When wandering the streets of Appenzell, you’ll notice the St. Morris and Appenzell city logo illustrated on the clock tower of the Appenzell Church.
APPENZELL 

Appenzell, a charming town with a population of just 1,500, is another must-visit destination. Once a single canton until the 16th century, it split into two smaller cantons. In the 16th century, a massive fire destroyed all of the buildings, except for the church. Remarkably, the town was rebuilt with wooden structures just a year later. Today, Appenzell serves as an important tourism center, offering visitors a glimpse of its rich history and picturesque charm.

 

4o mini

 

200-YEAR-OLD BELT FASHION 
Appenzell is also known for its authentic belts and bells.

Appenzell is renowned for its breathtaking views and deeply rooted traditions, including the Alpaufzüge processions to the alpine pastures, folk music, and local dance events. The town takes great pride in its famous Appenzell beer. While 30 percent of the population are farmers, the main source of income comes from tourism, with most residents working in this sector. Appenzell is also known for its exceptional handicrafts, including bells, traditional belts, jewelry, embroidery, naive rural paintings, dulcimer production, and saddlery for Alpine herdsmen and sheep farmers.

 

Women in traditional costumes attend a mass on the occasion of the Feast of Corpus Christi in Appenzell, Switzerland, June 4, 2015. (Gian Ehrenzeller/Keystone via AP)

The Appenzeller Belts, handcrafted using techniques unique to the region, have been in fashion for over 200 years. Traditional dresses adorned with gems, worn by village women during festivals, can be worth $15,000 or more. One of the city’s intriguing sights is an artwork that constantly spins next to the church. Created by Roman Signer Tisch, an artist born in Appenzell, this piece completes a full turn every three minutes. Another fascinating creation by Tisch, a table and chair placed by the river, will also catch your eye. If you’re drawn to scenic train rides, stunning natural landscapes, a peaceful atmosphere, and a glimpse of medieval Europe, Switzerland is the perfect destination—though it comes with a higher price tag.

Bon voyage…

The Glacier Express operates regular year-round services between the renowned Swiss Alpine resorts of St Moritz (Graubunden) and Zermatt (Valais). Pictured here in the Goms region of Canton Valais.
Copyright by: Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn/ Swiss Travel System By-Line: swiss-image.ch/Thomas Andenmatten
INDISPENSABLE: SWISS TRAVEL PASS 

Switzerland’s public transportation system, with its buses, trains, and ferries, is incredibly punctual and reliable. To make the most of it, tourists should purchase a Swiss Travel Pass, available at the SBB (Swiss Federal Railways) office in Zurich Airport or online. This pass allows unlimited travel across the country by rail, road, and sea, providing access to most buses, trains, and ferries, except for some private trains touring the Alps. We used the Swiss Travel Pass throughout our trip, and it made traveling across Switzerland seamless and convenient.

For detailed information: www.swisstravelsystem.com

Artist Ludwig Bleuer carried his oil-painting school to the Laufen Castle in 1833, later buying the castle and was the owner until the Zurich Canton purchased it in 1941. In honor of the artist, his paintings greet visitors at the entrance of the castle.
Burg Hohenklingen Castle
According to belief, the relief called ‘The Mouth of the Truth’ in Stein am Rhein, will bite the hand of the person that lies.
The Riesling Soup made with Riesling Silvaner grapes from the Schaffhausen region -so appreciated that it was served to Kings in the past- is a must-try flavor with its regional reparation method and delicious flavor.
Appenzeller biberli, a ginger cake filled with marzipan, is an important flavor of Switzerland.