NORWAY
Aside from the magnificent scenery of mountainous landscapes and silky smooth fjords, there are trains to take, boats to sail and amazing aspects of Viking heritage to be had in this small but big-on-experience country.
By Beverly Malzard
Norway is currently one of the richest countries in the world, and it’s brushing up on its hospitality. Visitor numbers to this divine Nordic country are growing rapidly every year, and for many reasons! The scenery, the myths and legends, the amazing cruises, the books and TV shows that have exposed a dark side of criminal fiction, the emerging gourmet foodie scene and the famed Northern Lights.
You can find mountains, glaciers and deep coastal fjords not too far away from the capital city of Oslo. What was once a rather traditional and conservative city, Oslo is now known for its extraordinary architecture over the past couple of decades, monumental structures have changed the skyline of the city and given it a splendid modern edge. For example, the Oslo Opera House sits by the harbor and its angles give the appearance of a building rising from the water. Pur Nork is a cool design shop selling original curiosities and high quality design items, and in the new borough of Tjuvholmen you can see modern architecture adding interest to the varied precincts of Oslo.
Galleries, theatres and cultural pursuits in the city are many, and a special treat is to visit Oslo’s Viking Ship Museum. There are three mighty ships here, all named after their place of discovery: Oseberg, Gokstad and Tune, the most impressive and ostentatious of which is the Oseberg. The burial chamber beneath where it was found holding the largest collection of Viking-age artifacts ever uncovered in Scandinavia.
And the food. There is the greatest variety of quality food to be had in and around Oslo, catering for all budgets and all tastes. Norway is an expensive country for travel, so pick your restaurants carefully and when you go for the big splurge, the Michelin-starred Maaemo has its welcome mat out. This is a beautifully minimalist restaurant with an elegant décor. The food is sourced locally and a team of chefs work as artists to present amazing food in a totally modern setting.
Other restaurants and cafes can be found in what were pompous bank and insurance buildings that have now come to life as foodie hubs. Asian food is popular, and with Oslo’s close proximity to the sea, lots of Japanese food is to be had. Try Alex Sushi and Hanami for exquisite seafood.
In a large warehouse on the edge of the Oslo port is Vippa, which is the city’s newest and hippest food, culture and music center. On Thursday’s through to Sunday, food trucks off era diverse range of cuisines accompanied by a DJ or live music. This is the place to witness the sunset in the Oslo fjord.
BEAUTIFUL BERGEN
Another wonderful city in Norway is Bergen, the capital of the fjords! Bergen sounds, feels and tastes like nowhere else. Fresh seafood and many other local delicacies are part of the vibrant café, museum and gallery scene.
The streets of this pretty city are lined with wooden houses and fairytale cottages, with the dramatic backdrop of the seven mountains behind it. The medieval Hanseatic wharf of Bryggen, with its 60 historic buildings in succession is on the UNESCO World Heritage list and dates back to the 12th century.
Bergen is the starting point for cruises to the dramatic Sognefjord. Taking a cruise in Norway is an unforgettable experience.
Norway’s most popular fjord tour is Norway in a Nutshell, which is available all year round, takes about nine hours and moves you through some of the most stunning landscapes in Fjord Norway. The trip comprises a fjord tour, the Bergen Railway and the Flam Railway, and is one of Norway’s most popular round trips.
Norway in a Nutshell, starts from the railway station in Bergen with a trip on the beautiful Bergen Railway from Bergen to Voss. Bergen Railway is the highest altitude railway in Northern Europe, and around 100km of the line runs through wild mountain terrain.
At the railway station in Voss, you will take a bus, and the trip continues to Gudvangen. In summer, the bus goes via the Stalheimskleiva hairpin bends, the 1.5km stretch of road that winds its way down the Nærøydalen valley from Stalheim.
Once you have arrived in Gudvangen innermost in the Nærøyfjord, you embark on a boat that will take you to Flåm. The Nærøyfjord is one of the narrowest fjords in Europe, and the trip to Flåm takes around 2 1/2 hours.
Flam (pronounced Flom) is an incredibly pretty town that is a UNESCO World Heritage listed habitat. The community here incorporates a handful of riches: one of Norway’s top attractions, the Flam Railway; the Flam Railway Museum; the historic Fretheim Hotel; the boutique Heimly guest house; the Toget restaurant and cafe; the Fjords Ferry Company and Aurland Shoe Factory (selling rather spiffy, bespoke penny loafers).
From Flåm, the trip continues on the Flåm Railway, one of the steepest normal gauge railways in the world, and the 20km-long train ride is a fantastic journey that offers panoramic views of some of the wildest and most magnificent mountain scenery Norway has to offer, including the famous Kjosfossen waterfall. The train ride lasts for roughly an hour.
At Myrdal station, you change trains to the Bergen Railway for the trip back to Bergen.
You can then take a bus from Bergen to catch a local ferry and cruise the Geirangerfjord to the end of the line. The wonderful deep water Geirangerfjord is a fjord in the Sunnmore region of More og Romsdal county and is a 15 km-long branch off the Sunnylvsfjorden. The tiny village of Geiranger is at the end of the trip, and it is from here you can catch a ride to Trondheim, a lovely medieval seaside city. The end of the season, mid September – October is a good time to make this trip, as it is quiet with not many people around. It is a relaxed cruise with just a few passengers and a crew who are ready to take a break. The waterfalls, still in full roaring flight, all have names and stories, and way, way up on top of the cliffs there is evidence of modest farms. These holdings are now deserted, and the Norse Gods would be the only ones who could tell how they were built and how the hardy farmers raised goats, farmyard animals, birds and children. The story goes, and it must be true, that children were tethered safely so they didn’t fall down the sides of these mighty crystalline rock walls that nature has given the appearance of a location for a gruesome fairytale.
The ferries here are stealthy and run quietly across the glassy waters of the world’s grandest fjords – nature’s finest.
When Norway is on your travel ticket, make sure you indulge yourself on the Flam Railway, stay in Flam and try to cruise all the extraordinary, stupendous fjords.
Visit: www.visitflam.com
